Cosmeto-textile is a technology that emerged in France in the late 1990s and, as its name suggests, brings together cosmetic care and textiles. Cosmeto-textile products are also referred to as “technical garments” or “smart textiles”. The BNITH (Bureau de Normalisation des Industries Textiles et de l’Habillement) defines cosmeto-textile as “a textile article containing a substance or preparation intended to be released in a lasting manner onto the various superficial parts of the human body, in particular the epidermis, and claiming one or more specific properties such as cleansing, perfuming, changing appearance, protecting, maintaining in good condition or correcting body odours.”[1].
While cosmeto-textile can be used for refreshing, deodorising or sun protection purposes, this article focuses on the appearance-related properties of cosmeto-textiles, particularly where the appearance of cellulite and skin texture are concerned. You will find out what cosmeto-textile is, how it works, what it does depending on the active ingredients used, and how to choose the right products for you.
Cosmeto-textile, cosmetotextile or cosmeto textile: what are we talking about?
Depending on the source, you may come across several spellings: “cosmeto-textile”, “cosmetotextile” or “cosmeto textile”. Whichever spelling is used, they all refer to the same concept, as defined by the BNITH above.
What is cosmeto-textile?
A “cosmeto-textile” product is a textile article — in other words, a garment — that contains within its structure one or more active ingredients designed to be applied for several hours against the superficial layer of the skin, the epidermis.
The active ingredients they contain can vary widely. In the case we are interested in here, namely cosmeto-textiles designed with skin texture in mind, you will find cosmetic actives commonly used in body care, such as caffeine, shea butter, sweet almond, algae, green tea, red vine or essential oils.
Several tests and studies have already been carried out to document the use of cosmeto-textile. Notable among these are the tests conducted by Dr Martine Cormary, phlebologist-dermatologist, which looked at the regular wearing of tights containing Cyclotella[2]. Also worth mentioning are the clinical tests carried out by an independent ISO 9001 laboratory on the Cellublue shorty[3].
How does cosmeto-textile work and what are its effects?
Cosmeto-textile relies on active ingredients already used in everyday body care products such as creams, gels, masks and lotions. The idea behind cosmeto-textile is to bring these actives and the fabric together. To do so, laboratories have adapted the formulas so they can be encapsulated and fixed onto the fibres of the fabric, or impregnated directly into the material.
The cosmeto-textile principle through capsules
Capsule-based cosmeto-textile, also known as “microencapsulation”, is by far the most widely used method in the field of smart textiles. It involves selecting one or more active substances and isolating them from the outside environment by enclosing them in a sphere-shaped polymer capsule, commonly referred to as a “microcapsule”[4]. Storing the actives in these sealed capsules makes it possible to preserve the chosen ingredients and then release them gradually. The capsule walls are sealed and protect the formula inside from evaporation, oxidation, UV rays, external chemicals and moisture. The capsules are fixed directly onto the garment’s fibres and generally measure less than 5 micrometres in diameter. They are therefore invisible to the naked eye and can be present in very large numbers. Depending on the density of the cosmeto-textile, there are between 60 and 80 billion microcapsules per square centimetre[5]. To make sure the capsules are evenly spread across the whole fabric, a fixing agent is applied before the fabric is immersed in a “capsule bath”. This way, the capsules can easily attach themselves to the entire fabric. Microencapsulation is the first stage of cosmeto-textile.
The cream that smooths the appearance of orange peel skin* and tones the skin
*Consumer test on 22 volunteers over 2 weeks, participants' self-assessment.
- Smooths the appearance of orange peel skin on the thighs, buttocks and stomach
- Caffeine & Green Coffee, the two benchmark active ingredients in body care
- Melting texture: absorbs in seconds and leaves the skin feeling comfortable
The second stage is known as “release”. When the capsules are subjected to an impact caused by the fabric rubbing against the skin, or by pressure between the skin and the fabric, their walls break open and the cosmetic actives are released directly onto the epidermis. So that release is spread out over several days, the capsules are designed not to burst all at once. This is made possible by two mechanisms:
- Different attachment points for the capsules on the fabric: some capsules are fixed to the surface of the textile fibres, others are located inside the fibres, and others still sit between the fibres.
- Varying wall thicknesses for the capsules: in general, microcapsule wall thickness ranges from 2 to 40 microns. While capsules with a 2-micron wall will rupture very easily, those with a thicker wall will take longer to break open and release their contents.
Once the contents of the capsules are released against the epidermis, the actives are deposited on the skin much like a product applied over the course of the day. The density of the capsules and their sealed construction mean the garment can be washed up to 30 times while still releasing actives. Some cosmeto-textiles can be “recharged” with sprays or by soaking them in liquid preparations; however, most cosmeto-textiles currently on the market cannot be recharged once the 30-wash cycle has been reached.
The effects of cosmeto-textile
The billions of capsules built into the fabric therefore gradually release their actives, mechanically, on contact with the skin. The formulas are in direct contact with the epidermis and the fabric has a gentle massaging effect. In practice, it is a little as though the wearer were applying a body care product to their skin throughout the day.
Depending on the actives contained in the microcapsules, the effects of cosmeto-textiles can vary. Cosmeto-textiles containing vegetable oils such as sweet almond, argan or avocado oil are used to hydrate and nourish the skin. Microcapsules containing butters (shea butter, mango butter…) have a strong moisturising effect. Garments containing caffeine or green tea are a staple of body care ranges, while garments containing algae tend to be presented as having toning and smoothing properties… In general, garments contain a combination of several different actives in order to offer the most comprehensive formula possible. It is therefore essential to know how to choose your cosmeto-textiles according to your needs by carefully reading the list of actives present in the microcapsules.
To choose the right cosmeto-textiles, you need to make sure the active ingredients suit your needs, but you should also check the lifespan of the fabric (number of possible washes).
Another factor to consider when choosing cosmeto-textiles is the shape of the garment. Cosmeto-textiles come in various forms: leggings, shorties, briefs, belts… and each of these covers specific areas of the body. For example, belt-shaped styles cover the skin around the stomach, waist and hips, while shorties cover the thighs, saddlebags and buttocks.
Since friction or pressure against the skin triggers the opening of the microcapsules, it is perfectly possible to engage in physical activity while wearing a cosmeto-textile garment. It is also possible to wear cosmeto-textiles at night, though it should be noted that the lack of movement means the garment releases fewer actives than during daytime use.
It is not necessary to apply traditional care products in addition to wearing a cosmeto-textile garment — the actives contained in the microcapsules are released onto the skin as you wear it. However, if you wish, do not hesitate to combine wearing a cosmeto-textile with a body skincare routine, including regular massage.
For the actives released by the microcapsules to be deposited on the skin, the fabric needs to be in direct contact with the epidermis. It is therefore best to wear the most minimal underwear possible, so that the cosmeto-textile covers the largest possible area.
Who can use cosmeto-textile?
Anyone can wear cosmeto-textile garments day to day. There are only three contraindications for these cosmeto-textiles: they are not suitable for children, pregnant or breastfeeding women should only use them with their doctor’s approval, and it is important to check the list of actives in the fabric to avoid any risk of allergy.
Key takeaways
Cosmeto-textiles are “smart” garments that, thanks to their billions of microcapsules, deposit cosmetic actives onto the skin. Their application takes place throughout the day, which sets them apart from a standard application of care products. The variety of shapes and active ingredient combinations found in these garments makes it possible to address different expectations: comfort, the appearance of the skin, skin texture… However, as with traditional care, they are no substitute for a balanced diet and regular physical activity, which remain the foundation.
[1] Source: Bureau de Normalisation des Industries Textiles et de l’Habillement (BNITH), March 2006
[2] Source: “Innovations” — Presentation of a study on textiles impregnated with an active ingredient reducing water retention. G. Gutierrez, K. Bendahou, M. Serrar, C. Saliba, M. Cormary.
[3] Source: clinical tests conducted by an independent ISO 9001 laboratory – cellublue.com
[4] Source: Institut Français du Textile et de l’Habillement
[5] Source: La cosmétotextile distille des soins actifs à la peau des femmes – Les Échos – 2005
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