Cosmeto-textile is a technology that emerged in France in the late 1990s, combining, as its name suggests, cosmetic care and textile products. Cosmeto-textile products are also referred to as “technical garments” or “smart textiles”. The BNITH (Bureau de Normalisation des Industries Textiles et de l’Habillement) defines cosmeto-textile as “a textile article containing a substance or preparation intended to be released in a lasting manner onto the various superficial parts of the human body, in particular the epidermis, and claiming one or more specific properties such as cleansing, perfuming, changing appearance, protecting, maintaining in good condition or correcting body odours.”[1].
While cosmeto-textile can be used for refreshing, deodorising or sun protection purposes, we will focus here on the appearance-modifying properties of cosmeto-textiles, and more specifically on their slimming, anti-cellulite and skin-texture improving actions. We will explore cosmeto-textile in greater detail — how it works, its effects, and tips for choosing the right products.
What is cosmeto-textile?
A “cosmeto-textile” product is a textile article — in other words, a garment — that contains within its structure one or more active ingredients designed to be applied for several hours against the superficial layer of the skin, the epidermis.
The active ingredients they contain can vary widely. In the context that interests us here — the action of cosmeto-textiles on skin texture — you will find cosmetic actives recognised for their slimming and fat-burning properties such as caffeine, shea butter, sweet almond, algae, green tea, red vine or essential oils.
Several tests and studies have already been conducted to confirm the effectiveness of cosmeto-textile. Notable among these are the tests carried out by Dr Martine Cormary, phlebologist-dermatologist, which showed that regularly wearing tights containing Cyclotella reduced leg circumference by 8% in 3 weeks by decreasing water retention and stimulating fat burning[2]. Also worth mentioning are the clinical tests conducted by an independent ISO 9001 laboratory for the Cellublue Slimming Expert Shorty: worn for 8 hours a day, 6 days a week, results showed centimetre losses of up to 5.5 cm on the hips and 3.1 cm on the thighs[3].
How does cosmeto-textile work and what are its effects?
Slimming cosmeto-textile relies on active ingredients already recognised for their effectiveness in the world of slimming care and widely used in traditional products such as creams, gels, masks and lotions. The concept behind cosmeto-textile is to combine these active ingredients with the action of the fabric itself. To achieve this, laboratories have adapted the formulations so they can be encapsulated and fixed onto the fibres of the fabric, or directly impregnated into the material.
The cosmeto-textile principle through capsules
Capsule-based cosmeto-textile, also known as “microencapsulation“, is the method most widely used in the field of smart textiles. It involves selecting one or more active substances and isolating them from the external environment by enclosing them in a sphere-shaped polymer capsule, commonly referred to as a “microcapsule”[4]. This storage technique within these insulating capsules makes it possible to preserve the efficacy of the chosen actives and then release them in a lasting way. The capsule walls are sealed and protect the care formula they contain from evaporation, oxidation, UV rays, external chemicals and moisture. These capsules are fixed directly onto the garment’s fibres and generally measure less than 5 micrometres in diameter. They are therefore invisible to the naked eye and can be present in very large numbers. Depending on the density of the cosmeto-textile, between 60 and 80 billion microcapsules can be found per square centimetre[5]. To ensure the capsules are evenly distributed across the entire fabric, a fixing agent is applied before the fabric is immersed in a “capsule bath”. In this way, the capsules can adhere easily to the whole fabric. Microencapsulation is the first stage of cosmeto-textile.
The second stage is known as “release“. When the capsules are subjected to an impact caused by the friction of the fabric against the skin or pressure between the skin and the fabric, their walls break open and the cosmetic actives are released directly onto the epidermis. To ensure the fabric remains effective over several days, the capsules are designed not to rupture all at once. This is made possible through two mechanisms:
- Different attachment points for the capsules on the fabric: some capsules are fixed to the surface of the textile fibres, others are located inside the fibres, and others still sit between the fibres.
- Varying wall thicknesses for the capsules: in general, microcapsule wall thickness ranges from 2 to 40 microns. While capsules with a 2-micron wall will rupture very easily, those with a thicker wall will take longer to break open and release their contents.
Once the contents of the capsules are released against the epidermis, the actives work like slimming treatments applied throughout the day. The density of the capsules and their sealed construction allow the garment to be washed up to 30 times while still delivering its benefits. Some cosmeto-textiles can be “recharged” using sprays or by immersing them in liquid preparations; however, most cosmeto-textiles currently available on the market cannot be recharged once the 30-wash cycle has been reached.
The effects of cosmeto-textile
The billions of capsules integrated into the fabric progressively release their slimming actives through a mechanical process upon contact with the skin. The formulas are in direct contact with the epidermis and the fabric provides a massaging effect. In practical terms, the combination of the actives and the friction of the fabric acts as though the wearer were applying slimming care to their skin throughout the entire day.
Depending on the actives contained in the microcapsules, the effects of cosmeto-textiles can vary. Cosmeto-textiles containing vegetable oils such as sweet almond, argan or avocado oil will help to hydrate and regenerate the skin. Microcapsules containing butters (shea butter, mango butter…) will have a strong moisturising effect. If the garment contains caffeine or green tea, it will help to burn fat and stimulate blood circulation. Garments containing algae will tend to have more toning and smoothing properties… In general, garments contain a combination of several different actives in order to deliver the most comprehensive results possible. It is therefore essential to know how to choose your cosmeto-textiles according to your needs by carefully reading the list of actives present in the microcapsules.
To choose the right slimming cosmeto-textiles, you need to ensure that the active ingredients match your needs, but you should also check the fabric’s effective lifespan (number of possible washes).
Another factor to consider in order to benefit from the slimming properties of cosmeto-textiles is the shape of the garment. Cosmeto-textiles come in various forms: leggings, shorties, briefs, belts… and each of these targets specific areas of the body. For example, belt-shaped styles will help to slim and improve the appearance of the skin around the stomach, waist and hips, while shorties will deliver results on the thighs, saddlebags and buttocks.
Since friction or pressure against the skin triggers the action of the microcapsules, it is highly recommended to engage in physical activity while wearing a cosmeto-textile garment. It is also possible to wear cosmeto-textiles at night, though it should be noted that their effect may be reduced compared to daytime use, as the lack of movement means the garment cannot continuously release its slimming actives.
It is not necessary to apply traditional care products in addition to wearing a slimming garment — the actives contained in the microcapsules are sufficient to see results. However, if you want to notice results more quickly, do not hesitate to combine wearing a cosmeto-textile with a slimming and anti-cellulite skincare routine.
For the actives released by the microcapsules to work directly on the skin, the fabric must be in direct contact with the epidermis. It is therefore advisable to wear as minimal underwear as possible beneath cosmeto-textiles, so they can act over the largest possible surface area.
Who can use cosmeto-textile?
Anyone can wear cosmeto-textile garments on a daily basis. Only three contraindications exist for slimming cosmeto-textiles: these garments are not suitable for children, they should only be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women with their doctor’s approval, and it is important to check the list of actives contained in the fabric to avoid any risk of allergic reaction.
Key takeaways
Cosmeto-textiles are “smart” garments that, thanks to their billions of microcapsules, work like traditional cosmetic treatments. However, their application takes place throughout the day, meaning the effects are therefore multiplied compared to a standard application of slimming care. The variety of shapes and active ingredient combinations found in these garments makes it possible to address different slimming goals: reducing water retention, burning fat, diminishing cellulite, improving skin texture… However, as with traditional slimming care, it is necessary to combine their use with a balanced diet and regular physical activity in order to achieve optimal results.
[1] Source: Bureau de Normalisation des Industries Textiles et de l’Habillement (BNITH), March 2006
[2] Source: “Innovations” — Presentation of a study on textiles impregnated with an active ingredient reducing water retention. G. Gutierrez, K. Bendahou, M. Serrar, C. Saliba, M. Cormary.
[3] Source: clinical tests conducted by an independent ISO 9001 laboratory – cellublue.com
[4] Source: Institut Français du Textile et de l’Habillement
[5] Source: La cosmétotextile distille des soins actifs à la peau des femmes – Les Échos – 2005